The brooder (weeks 0–6)
Chicks can’t regulate their own temperature yet, so the brooder does it for them.
- Heat: start at ~95°F (35°C) under the lamp, then lower about 5°F per week until you reach room temperature. Watch the birds, not just the thermometer — huddled under the lamp means too cold; pressed to the edges means too hot; spread out and active is just right.
- Space: allow room to move between the warm zone and a cooler zone.
- Bedding: pine shavings work well. Avoid cedar (the oils irritate lungs) and slick newspaper (splayed legs).
Feed & water
- Feed a chick starter (~18–20% protein) free-choice. Use medicated or unmedicated based on your vaccination plan.
- Provide clean water at all times; refresh daily. A shallow waterer with marbles or pebbles prevents drowning in the first days.
- Hold off on treats and scratch early on — if you do offer them, add a dish of chick grit to help digestion.
Watch for these early
- Pasty butt: droppings stuck over the vent. Gently clean with a warm, damp cloth — it can be fatal if ignored. Often eases once they’re warm and hydrated.
- Lethargy or not eating/drinking: check brooder temperature first; a chick that’s too cold won’t eat.
- Splayed legs: address quickly with better footing and a soft hobble.
Moving to the coop
Around 5–6 weeks, once they’re fully feathered and night temperatures are mild, chicks can move outside. Transition gradually and make the coop predator-proof. Switch to a grower or layer feed on the schedule for your breed — layer feed only once they’re near point of lay (~16–18 weeks).
Keeping the flock healthy
- Biosecurity: quarantine new birds, wash hands and boots, and keep feed sealed against rodents and wild birds.
- Clean water and dry bedding prevent most common problems.
- Offer a dust-bathing area and provide oyster shell for laying hens.
This is general guidance, not veterinary advice. For a sick bird, consult a poultry vet.
Questions about a specific breed? Contact us.